As I bit into the toast the rich, decadent, wobbly marrow on top oozed a little , leaving a faint smear of fat on my lips. I was in a fancy restaurant in New York (Minetta Tavern) and surely I couldn’t just drag my tongue across my lips. The fuck I couldn’t. I licked my face clean after every bite, begrudgers bedamned. There’s a reason bone marrow is popping up on restaurant menus all over the place. They call it God’s butter.
Historically Irish cooking was considered a peasant cuisine, where every part of the cow was eaten but the ‘moo’. Though these days we’ve all become more trained to buy our meat pre-packaged, and are missing out on treats like bone marrow. It’s accepted to frame ‘nose to tail’ eating as respecting the slaughtered animal by wasting none of it. Also you can discuss embracing forgotten techniques if you’d like. But let’s cut through the shite, the main reason you should head down to your butchers and demand a bag of bones is the taste. Bone marrow has a slight nuttiness, unctuous, creamy and subtly sweet, the taste is incredible. Cooked as part of a rich stew, or simply slathered across some toast, it’s all good. Of course if you’re concerned that there is no more to marrow than just fat. Well there’s good news. It is dense in monounsaturated fat, which helps lower cholesterol and is imbued with vitamins and minerals. FTW.
Marrow bones can also be used to make stock and cooked marrow can be whisked into soups, risotto or sauces to enrich them and add a depth of flavour. I’ve made marrow butter by blending bone marrow with butter and parsley. Rolled into some clingfilm, put in the fridge and later cut into discs to melt onto a piece of steak, or into a pasta dish. Another way is to roast the marrow, remove from the bone and let it cool again so it hardens up. Roll the chilled marrow in some flour and shallow fry in a pan until browned and crisp on the outside and the marrow melts on the inside. However my favourite way of enjoying bone marrow is the simplest, roasted and spread onto some toasted bread with sprinkling of sea salt and served with a sharp parsley, shallot salad to cut through the creaminess of the marrow. This preparation has its resurgence from Fergus Henderson’s St. Johns restaurant in London, though the recipe below is closer to the salsa verde I love so dearly than the parsley salad used there.
Shopping
When buying bones talk to your local butcher in advance as he may have to order them in. Ask for centre piece of shin, ideally from the hind legs of a grass fed cow. The centre cut bones should cost no more than about 50c per piece and will be about two inches in height.
Prep
Preheat your oven to 200 degrees, and line the bottom of your roasting tray with some tinfoil because fat will leak out when roasting. Put the bones onto the tin foil, standing up with the thick end of the bone on the bottom, so they’re more stable when moving the tray in and out of the oven.
After about 15 minutes the marrow should be slightly bubbling and have come away from edges a little. Thicker bones will take a little longer, so keep an eye on them. While the bones are roasting you can make the dressing.
Salsa
Strip the leaves from a bunch of parsley, using about half of leaves one of the supermarket herb pots. Thinly slice 2 shallots, or a half a mild small red onion and mix with the parsley into a bowl. Whisk in 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Add a teaspoon of rinsed capers and 1/2 a teaspoon of Dijon mustard. Mix all the ingredients together until well combined.
Eating
Put the roasted bones, parsley salad and some toast on a large plate. To serve, scoop out the marrow and spread it on the toast. Sprinkle with some sea salt and top with the Salsa Verde.




{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }
First off am going to go on a bit of a rant here so excuse me! My mother grew up eating bone marrow and it was always the “fillet” when she was a child. Then we lost the run of ourselves and became totally divorced from our food source and to be honest ignorant about food. Now if you go into a country butcher and ask for the “cheap cuts” the reply you are likely to get is that only “foreigners” ask for that……??? I can get a pig’s head from the “bin” in my local craft butcher free, a ham hock for 70 cent and a lamb shank for €2. My son is a chef in the south of France and he is still in shock at these in France these are the expensive parts of the animal. We used to know our stuff here but “progress or maybe regress” got in the way…..
You’re absolutely right. I live in Crumlin and had to drive to an Industrial Estate in Rathcoole to get my bones direct from a distributor, none of the local butchers could be bothered ordering it in, because the margins are so low I guess. Even at the distributors it was €1.50 a ham hock (forthcoming post). I started talking to these guys trying to source Veal sweetbreads and because I only wanted 1kg they couldn’t supply them. Though Pat Whelan has since promised on twitter to help me with sweetbreads! We are missing out on these wonderful things. I don’t know if the economics are wrong, but it needs to be demand driven. About 50% of the post above was the basis for this weeks column in the Irish Daily Mail, and fair play to them for giving me a weekly column to write about these things. All we can do is talk and celebrate and hopefully curious minds will follow…
You should try Larkins Butchers on Meath Street for your bones, unlike most places they are victuallers as well so I’d be very surprised if they didn’t have any bones for you. Also, FXBs on Moore Street always have marrow bones. Either way, it’d save you a trip out to Rathcoole! Is that place MKMeats btw?
Thanks for the tips Stef… must try Larkins Butchers. Yeah the Rathcoole place was MK Meats, good to pop out once but would rather not have to make weekly trips.
Yeah, I normally do a bulk buy of them and get it delivered, when I had the freezer space I used to get a 20kg box of veal bones for stock; have found another butcher who sells them to me in 4kg lots now which is much handier.
The problem in Dublin is that butchers are no longer real butchers and are not actually butchering an animal rather buying in a carcass and cutting it. My mother has difficulty getting bones for a dog and I have to bring some up to her when I visit. This is why so many can’t source the cheaper cuts as they never had them in the first place. My local butcher told me to go to the abbatoir for beef cheeks. A lot of the blame lies with EU regulations getting rid of small abbatoirs and butchers now only able to cut meat from a huge centralised abbatoir.
I hear ya. There’s a guy I work with who comes up to the Dublin office, perhaps once a week, and has a farm with about 1o0 sheep and I asked about when he sends them to slaughter and asked for lamb sweetbreads…. I may as well have asked for alien parts. So where’s it going wrong? Perhaps the EU, but I find that an easy target at times. I think the distribution model is wrong. When the producers can’t realise there’s value in the off-cuts, and there’s no promoters for same, then we’re all hamstrung…
The Market Butcher out in Newcastle, Co. Dublin supplies to a lot of restaurants in the Dublin area, but also has a butcher’s counter open to the public. We’ve been able to get beef cheeks there and any time we are shopping I ask for bones for the dogs and get a bagful of huge bones, freshly cut.
I’m not affiliated with them in any way, but I’d highly recommend talking to them for of the more unusual bits (not that they should be unusual).
http://www.themarketbutcher.eu/
Thanks Elly- they’re the guys I was referring to when I was talking about heading to an Industrial Estate in Rathcoole. Only used them the once, it’s a bit of a hike, but I picked up pigs cheeks, ham hocks and the marrow bones. Must drop them an email to order some veal chops…
Ignorance and the EU regulations combine to make the problem. The butchers only stock the high end cuts as there is almost a pride that customers want and can afford the expensive cuts. I find even the butchers ignorant of the entire carcass and I am no expert believe me. My local village butcher used to have his own abbatoir but now he only has the usual striploin (not even sirloin), stewing beef (round??), mince and fillet. He has pork chops, lamb chops and roasts and hams end of. This is what sells and what his customers expect. The day I was in his shop asking for pork belly I had an audience as he asked me how I would cook it and immediately two other women ordered same.
I haven’t anything new to add, just to say I can so relate to all that’s being said here. I live in France – every part of every animal is used. The limited choice of cuts of meat in Ireland is flabbergasting. Where do all the non-stewing-fillet-steak bits go?? If it’s for cat and dog food well they’re certainly getting well fed!
Don’t think the EU is solely to blame – it’s the way the regulations are understood and applied.
I do my bit when I’m over, asking for odd bits like shin beef and scrag end (tastiest pieces of meat to my mind). Don’t give up, you’re creating Ireland’s developing food culture right now!!
Thanks for contributing. I have no idea where the odd bits end up from the abattoir. It would be interesting to find out. Might be a decent feature to pitch to one of the papers for a weekend supplement …
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